“It’s about wardrobing,” said Jason Wu.
The designer’s pre-fall outing was born out of dualities, a trip he took to Houston where he got a private tour of an estate designed by architect Philip Johnson and decorated by the legendary couturier Charles James and the opposing forces of minimalism and maximalism.
“I myself have a little of those two sides,” he said, with a laugh.
Think a wild blue zebra print but on a sharply cut chic slipdress with bits of lace hanging out. It created a bit of tension between the loudness of the print and sensual details.
Languid dresses, sharp suiting, a V-neck white shirt with peasant sleeves, an asymmetrical wool sweater — all wardrobe builders but full of Wu’s idiosyncrasies. Another example: A rich sandy-colored trenchcoat with knife pleats on the back. These were pieces with subtle design twists that were fairly seasonless depending on one’s climate.
There were plays on texture and fabrications, too, like a forest green chunky knit paired with a clay colored suede skirt with a slit over the knee.
Wu sees the collection as an elevation for him; it was a concept that rang true. In the past he may have played with a bit of girlish charm, but pre-fall sees him step forward with a grownup sensuality and sophistication.
Wu hinted at plans to open stores in 2020, and thinking about how his two offerings will hang side by side, luxury and advanced contemporary. Both live in harmony in Wu’s brain.