For pre-fall, designers Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim looked to the world of interior design and architecture to infuse new textures into their latest collection for Oscar de la Renta. The film, “I Am Love,” featuring Tilda Swinton, influenced the designers to look at Milanese architecture, which they developed into intricate details, as well as wallpaper and tapestry-reminiscent prints, developed into jacquards and fil coupes. For instance, there were the printed cotton frocks or a jacquard coat atop matching belted dress. The most intriguing takes came in new, 3-D embroideries, which were developed in India, each piece of fabric fused two to three times before it was stitched over onto the gowns.
“I think it’s about finding the right embroidery technique that will read, but at the same time have the aspirational aspect. It’s about transforming moldings into clothes without looking like a costume,” Garcia noted, adding that the technique had never been done within the Oscar de la Renta house before.
The results, especially on the bodices and sleeves of black-and-white evening offerings, successfully resembled swirled interior moldings and floral blooms in a romantic way. The idea was replicated with the brand’s new, and first official, shoe offering on leather sandals and heels. Within daywear, Garcia and Kim went for more clean, less thematic offerings. Leather options were aplenty, layered tonally with expanded knit offerings, as in a dark green midi-skirt with matching ribbed tank or a fresh, sienna toned jumpsuit. The rest of the lineup offered new takes on brand signatures, as clean suiting or the duo’s fall 2018 magnificent red layered tulle opera coat, which reemerged for the season with lighter layers of black tulle surrounding a floral jacquard base.