Theory has quietly gone through some internal changes, resulting in the current vacancy of a creative director for women’s. The brand’s most recent, Francesco Fucci, joined in 2018 and brought forth a heightened level of sophistication and romance that built upon the brand’s practical workwear foundation. The narrative moving forward will continue to explore those realms with more connectivity to the men’s wear offering.

Overseen by the design studio, the pre-fall assortment was a tightened lineup of quintessential summer pieces celebrating strong-performing product categories that still managed to inject new ideas. It was all about the woman off duty, and giving customers the most use out of an edited assortment about half the size of last year.

There was one new jacket shape, a lightweight blazer with sharp shoulders, rendered into fire opal, black, blue suede and textured crepe to illustrate an element of sophisticated, transitional ease. Three key pant silhouettes were cut in the same cotton stretch twill, while thin knit dressing and silk dresses spoke to the idea of summer glamour. Highlights here included a rich navy top with shoulder sash and a similarly cut dress with chainlink print styled over a matching button down. Other ties and twists, including the side sash of a cotton poplin skirt, provided hints of sensuality, as did the body-hugging knit tank and skirt look that managed to blend in comfort. Whereas past uses of color have tended to be monochrome, this collection explored color adjacency, including a silky bronze shirt paired with sky blue pants, accented by the new chainlink belt.

Also part of the strategic structural changes: traceability. Though not directly part of the pre-fall collection, the brand will soon be launching “Theory for Good,” consisting of three traceable fabrics comprised mostly of suiting meant to be worn year-round.

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