Drawing on influence from Seville, Elie Saab worked a bold lineup of dressy suits and gowns in dark hues — deep greens, reds and teal, a lot of black — with a sprinkle of fringes, lacework and ruffles that brought texture to the mix. Flower prints were oversize, adding to the assertive nature of the collection, on the skirt of a ballgown with a black, velvet top, or shrunk to a more delicate size, worked with shiny sequins. For the debut of the children’s line, the designer offered dressy looks: a black, lacy ballgown for girls and a dark three-piece velour suit for boys.

WWD Critique: With masculine undertones, the collection felt confident and sensual and, for the most part, unsentimental — especially when there were fewer ruffles involved.