Toni Maticevski’s work is like an abstract sculpture: slightly different each time you view it. For pre-fall, he played with surface effects on his signature sculptural volumes and fabrics. It started with a high-visibility fabric, originally a coating layer. Maticevski felt attracted to the way artificial light — particularly camera flashes — brought out iridescence. With tulle in similar green-purple hues and buffed leathers, he brought a Blade Runner cyber-glamour to pencil skirts, figure-skimming trousers and filmy tops, all the way to the dramatic gowns on which his business is built.

WWD Critique: The designer’s flattering draped designs had buyers emptying the racks to make their selections.