For their pre-fall collection for Nina Ricci, creative directors Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh focused on the tailoring heritage of the storied French couture house.
The effects were subtle: a slight sack back on a pink wool jacket with a knit collar; kimono sleeves on an oversize coat, or folded seams that produced a gentle hourglass shape on a single-button suit jacket. Trenchcoats, meanwhile, came with looped belts or drawstring ruching that could be tightened or released at will.
“It was more an idea of creating these couture shapes with just simple gestures, simple elements that you can as a woman decide to not do, or do,” Herrebrugh said. “It needs to be a piece that can work for any occasion or any time of the day.”
Underlining the focus on pattern, the duo played with flat and three-dimensional shapes for their knitwear, which included a bubblegum pink viscose sweater with a shawl collar. Standouts in the androgynous lineup included a flawlessly cut peacoat with slightly curved side seams.
“The body is never too straight. It hugs around the body and makes you feel comfortable in the garments as well,” Herrebrugh said. It’s the kind of detail that, if you get it wrong, can throw an entire garment off-balance. The designers not only nailed the proportions, but made it look effortless.