Gabriele “Bebe” Moratti wants to prove that glamour and sustainability can go hand-in-hand. In a lineup focused largely on eveningwear, organic denim minidresses adorned with ruffles formed to shape a giant rose reprised one of the designs from his last couture collection, while the embroideries in the collection were done in India at a project teaching women the craft, traditionally a male preserve. The label is also looking into how new technologies can help it to reduce its footprint — for example exploring a start-up making sequins from pineapple waste.
Tuxedos — one of the label’s signatures — came in a range of shapes and styles. In velvet, a pale pink chenille minidress version was adorned with a lattice of sparkling beads, while a pantsuit was offered in regal purple. There were also three-piece suits in men’s tailoring fabrics, glammed up with metallic threads, and a range of asymmetric statement designs contrasting black with hot pink, some done in plant-based leather.
The label provided a sneak peek at its first designs for men, to be unveiled on the runway next month, as well as revealing its Athletix activewear collection, which incorporates recycled nylon and polyester and landed online last week.