Rosie Assoulin is walking a tightrope with the launch of her first pre-fall collection, as this is traditionally easy-to-grab choices with long retail shelf life. Too simple, and she’s treading By Any Other Name territory (her second, lower-priced brand). Too sophisticated might tread on the toes of her main fall offering. Ultimately, it just meant more room for the fanciful pieces that made her reputation, focusing on hand-finished details and lush materials. Fans will flock to the already-hit “thousand-in-one-ways” sweater launched last December, the bracelet knit variant of the season, a printed organza dress with balloon sleeves, a structured vest with fil coupé cold-shouldered sleeves, the kind of surf short that spells casual sophistication and an asymmetric bolero dress that can unbutton down into a halter dress. Prices will start at $395 for a T-shirt with a fruit decal and a knot on the side, all the way to the low $2,000 range for cocktail dresses and more elaborate pieces.

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