If Princess Diana had a daughter, “she would be way more rebellious than Harry,” Natalie Ratabesi believes. This was the starting point for the designer’s pre-fall collection, an Eighties-tinged lineup built around bourgeois tailoring with a twist. Jackets were worn long, double-breasted and collarless — in an acid yellow and black check, paired with ultra-wide pants — or cropped with a single lapel, for example in a vivid green silk wool blend. The latter was part of a reinterpreted three-piece suit including a mini wrap skirt with gold buttons and big pockets that could be layered over pants almost like a belt. High, waistband-free jeans were made from deadstock denim, elevated in cut yet roughed up in treatment, while a silk chiffon parachute dress in green and a nude bodysuit encrusted with repurposed beading ramped up the feminine quotient.