Craft techniques were once again Y’s starting point for much of its pre-fall collection, designed by Yohji Yamamoto’s creative team. For the Black line, the label’s signature shift dresses and shirts were dip-dyed using the Chusen method, creating splotches in shades of green or blue, making each piece unique, while the label’s gabardine pieces were combined with flax fabric details, giving a subtle play on texture.

Boxy indigo denim pieces were stitched before being washed then unsewn, adding contrast to areas of the fabric, a two-tone theme that also punctuated the chunky reversible knit coats bonded in two colors — red and khaki or navy and beige.

Among the standout pieces in the more image-driven Pink line, full-length Japanese-inspired coats were lightly padded using a special method and featured swirling patterns with a Buddha’s hand motif, symbolizing energy flows.

The technique was reprised on panels on the back of a shirt, for example, and the motif also appeared in the lace edging of simpler shirt or smock dresses in black or vivid purple. These were counterbalanced with grungier designs like a dress/shirt hybrid printed with gothic castles and T-shirts with the imagery of a fictional heavy metal band.