A Victorian seaside breeze blew through this collection, which was filled with contrasting elements: hard and soft, chunky and delicate, tailored and fluid. Among Sarah Burton’s inspirations was the British paleontologist Mary Anning, the British shoreline and the era’s obsession for collecting and categorizing bits of nature. There was broderie anglaise everywhere, worked into long white dresses, tunic tops or short ruffle skirts. All that demureness was balanced by leather corset belts, harness tops or thick cashmere sweaters. Other dresses came as sheer lacy knits as delicate as lingerie, with ruffles, bell sleeves or breezy tiers on the skirts. Tailoring had a whiff of Victoriana, too, as in a shell print suit layered over a sheer lacy blouse. A long military coat with a slashed waist had an abstract Union Jack pattern and resembled something that might have washed ashore in a shipwreck.

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