Like many others, David Koma has been influenced by the Eighties resurgence that’s been making waves on the catwalks and shop floors alike.
But the London-based designer managed to stand out in his interpretation of the hugely popular decade, making it his own by blending subtle Eighties references — a puff sleeve here, a crystal-embellished zip there — with his signature graphic lines and flair for modernism.
The result was a collection filled with desirable pieces that had the glamour and drama of the past and the sense of ease that speaks to today’s consumer.
Inspired by Helmut Newton’s swimwear photographs, Koma re-created his popular minidresses with curved, sporty necklines and ultra-thin shoulder straps. He also added a generous dose of sparkle with oversize crystals, silver sequins and Plexiglass. Heavy embellishment can be dangerous territory, but by keeping a monochromatic color palette and using the crystals or sequins to create graphic lines, Koma maintained a fresh, modern look.
Among the standouts were a white one-shouldered gown featuring a flashy sequinned side panel that aims to highlight the body, a black-and-white tuxedo dress with puffed silk-organza sleeves and black minidresses mixing graphic cutouts and soft draping.
Elsewhere, Koma continued to play with contrasts in a series of looks that incorporated romantic, macramé lace onto sharply cut asymmetric dresses or tailored pants.
He is also starting to explore daywear, but his is a bold, daring version of daywear for women who take power dressing seriously. Standouts included a black denim-twill mini dress featuring oversize shoulders and gathered sleeves and body-hugging leather pencil skirts.