Hussein Chalayan, whose collections often arise out of philosophical questions, cultural and intellectual concerns, was thinking about happiness — in its loosest sense — and how different people throughout history have seen it.

The collection was slick and thought-provoking, with patterns — some embroidered, others printed — inspired by sculptures depicting the myth of the Abduction of the Sabine Women, domination being a source of joy for the ancient Romans.

The back collars on suit jackets were made to look as if someone had yanked them downward in a bid to make off with the wearer, while dark dresses were embroidered with scenes of abduction from classical sculpture, picked out in white thread.

Other jackets came with straps that could be worn various ways, symbolizing security and stability, while dresses and other pieces were wrapped in transparent layers, relaying the ideas of preservation and protection.

Chalayan also played with draping, for cotton shirts, dresses with laser-cut slashes and jackets and jackets with curtain cord details.

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