Raquel Allegra injected a cultural mash-up into her resort 2019 collection, using a silk calico print from India, a chrysanthemum kimono print from Japan, and a knit blanket motif from Latin America as part of the mix of colors and textures in her “cabinet of curiosities.”
The combination of prints recalls Henri Matisse’s paintings, which reflect his love of textiles. Allegra also pulled color combinations as lavender and marigold from his works to create a color story on one end composed of vibrant pastels and saturated midtones, echoing seasonal flowers like peonies and lilacs. On the other end of the spectrum, Allegra used earth tones and a warm spice alluding to the Silk Road, another reference to exploration and an exchange of textiles.
In another designer’s hands, the combination of fabrics, colors and patterns could seem overly busy, but Allegra’s skill in mixing and layering the elements resulted in an appealing collection that speaks to seasonless and transitional dressing for the upscale bohemian woman.
Each look combined humble and dressy fabrics, such as cloudlike tie-dyed cotton long-sleeved T-shirt visible beneath a mesh top, paired with a silk-cotton midiskirt. “Everything plays well together, but it’s not subscribed. It’s how I achieve my own comfort level when dressing,” said Allegra.
She’s also pushing herself to create new categories, such as printed silk twill soft suiting and matching top and pant sets, woven cotton jackets, blouses and jumpsuits and outerwear made from fleece and tailoring jersey.
Instead of going full-on sporty, Allegra stayed true to her feminine dress silhouettes and added touches like contrast ribbing or a tonal stripe woven into her signature fluid satin.
“My customer’s not 20,” she said. “She’s not wearing every trend of showing off a lot of skin. It’s about feeling comfortable, feminine and luxurious at the same time.”