Niall Sloan’s second collection as global design director ran the gamut of approachable day-to-evening fare. Where his fall debut channeled the eccentricity of Escada’s archive with an Eighties bent, here Sloan incorporated the season’s inspiration with whimsical flare.
He looked to the night sky — perhaps inspired by the clarity of his newfound home (the designer splits his time between London and Munich, where Escada is based) — in ways ranging literal (a billowing cloud print on a sharp-shouldered dress; a recurring star motif), to abstract (the use of Lurex and velvet to reference starlight).
Sloan has been focused on broadening the brand’s definition of cocktail while leveling a casual thread. The strongest pieces managed to balance flash with restraint, like the shimmery metallic gowns that shaped the body loosely, or a billowy dress with shooting star print. In two seasons, he’s demonstrated a playfulness not commonly associated with the boardroom-oriented Escada woman.
His playful hand extended namely into daywear. Shots of pink and green livened separates while a brushstroke floral print created through a collaboration with artist Laura Gulshani, who Sloan found on Instagram, provided a sense of youth. The most festive elements came in the form of beading that served as mismatched buttons on a double-breasted leather coat or as trimming on a great trench that winked to his time at Burberry.