Sylvie Millstein is embracing color. “Resort is all about the colors,” she said at a walk-through. “I think my customer, in the middle of winter, she wants to be wowed by novel colors and things that she can grab and take on vacation or wear immediately in winter.” Her eclectic, and inviting, palette of yellow, raspberry red, pink and turquoise drew from Helen Frankenthaler’s saturated color compositions.

Thus a balance: of injecting colorful energy, reinterpreting greatest hits and introducing alluring new styles. The focus here was evolution. Customers know Millstein can deliver on statement tops (she can rework a shirt in a million ways); to wit: she had a dramatic gauzy pink style with puff sleeves and a couple with a shoulder ruffle flourish. She also updated the Hutton tunic style Rihanna wore last November with trompe l’oeil sleeve ties around the waist.

But she’s focused on elaborating categories like statement pants, suiting and dresses in the Hellessy way of relaxed chic. Pants updated on signatures hybrids — pant-skirt hybrids were fitted in front and flowed dramatically from behind; jeans featured built-in silk satin ties that could tie like a sash or be worn trailing in back. Suiting felt the most fresh, and included a pastel yellow with a fluid panel running down the leg or a plush corduroy set with slashed sleeves. These were elevated and exaggerated takes on classics, yet still approachable. Hence, the Hellessy look.

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