While nature is often a starting point for Issey Miyake designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae, for his resort collection the designer got specific with the cactus flowers of the desert as a jump-off point. The collection used the dusty hues of the desert paintings of Georgia O’Keeffe to produce prints of muted colors with curving lines that represent flower petals. The flared shape of many of the dresses gave the illusion of a blooming flower with floral pleats in different colors and thickness that are woven in as stripes on the fabric. Textiles are always at the core of Miyamae’s design and for resort he continued to develop a new technology, steam stretch, which uses steam heat to shrink thread and cloth into shape. The technology gave birth to lovely organic cactus-like shapes combining various angles of pleated lines with uneven hems that drape uniquely on the wearer’s body. More newness came from coats, some fitted with pleated collars and some loose made of hole-punched synthetic suede in muted earthy tones of aqua and caramel, and a new machine was developed to make “wave stripe pleats” which change direction with each stripe.

As always, his pieces offer variations of how to be worn, a straightforward pleated blazer can be turned inside out and become an evening bolero jacket. The range felt light, airy and beautifully grounded in the uniqueness of the American southwest.