Every Marissa Webb collection begins with a man. It’s not surprising as the designer has cultivated a masculine-feminine narrative.

This season began with a deep dive into Google and an image of an effeminate male wearing a bleached jumper in a Seventies ad. (Possibly a date ad, Webb isn’t quite sure.) It inspired the bleached denim pieces in the collection — a couple of great high-waisted shorts with wide-leg openings, and a shirt jacket and jeans with distressing she does herself with a Dremel tool.

She also searched various names and places like Charlotte Rampling, Lauren Hutton, Thailand and Spain, which would explain the casualness in flirty dresses and suiting and the saturated color palette. Where Webb excels is at the intersection of the hard-soft, structured-fluid spectrum. Casual white Ts were dipped in paillettes, hand-painted floral patterns were cut into short suits, and ruching and ruffles were done in atypical crisp canvas to better maintain shape. Other highlights included feminine-inflected tailoring, like boxy blazers with ruffle sleeves, soft-tailored frayed suiting and leather pants with more leg room.

“Everything stands alone,” Webb said at a preview, adding: “Everything has a casual element, even if it feels dressed up, you can pair it with flats.”

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