There was a mood of easy sexiness in the loose mannish shapes of Chris Leba’s resort collection. He looked to Patti Smith for her iconic tomboyish style, offering up signature twists on classics with a punk spirit.
The main message here was a play on proportions that leaned on gender-ambiguous undertones. He cut men’s wear-inspired items with abandon, allowing blazers, denim jackets and an impossibly cool trenchcoat to flow freely in the back while keeping the length shorter in front. It allowed traditionally heavy outerwear to be tucked in for an unfussy laid-back look, even though they involved serious tailoring. He plied his hand in the reworked shirting category, applying a similar short-long duality to some while intentionally offsetting the construction of others to fall slightly down the shoulder. A white-and-striped version had the impact of easy allure while a mixed-plaid one was effortlessly cool. “She’s trying but she’s not trying,” Leba said in his showroom.
He offered up some updates to brand signatures, too, like the edgy crossover style pants (originally in denim) now cut in washable wool in trousers and shorts. There were vintage-inspired leather jackets with hardware accents, a poppy leopard suit and pops of colorful casual T-shirts throughout. He even played on the idea of a logo with options, including “Thirteen” spelled out along the sleeve of an oversized surplus jacket. But the brand is denim at heart, and one of the more interesting updates included a distressing treatment inspired by crossing a barbwire fence.