At the top of the rainbow-painted stairs in the SoHo townhouse where Rosie Assoulin showed her resort and spring collections (she’s a convert to the June/December schedule) was the 1981 Memphis boxing ring designed by Masanori Umeda. On the ground floor, a lamp and cabinet by Gaetano Pesce led to five pillars by Daniel Buren painted in black-and-white stripes and primary colors. It felt like Rosie’s custom dream house. In fact, it was “Raquel’s Dream House,” a monthlong installation of Memphis design by Raquel Cayre, the 26-year-old behind the popular Instagram account @ettoresottsass, who extended her show dates just for Assoulin.
“We decided on the space two weeks ago,” said Assoulin as she walked through a bicolored dress that looked like damask jacquard but was actually jersey. (Next to it was a crimson sundress in real silk damask.) Scattered about the rooms, models wore looks in cheery colors and quirky silhouettes that felt like the fashion equivalent of the art — eclectic, beautifully made, born into the family, but, at times, very distantly related.
There was a poncho made of a mesh of colorful cabochons inspired by the beads Assoulin’s mother-in-law, the jewelry designer Roxanne Assoulin, uses; a brushed cotton twill peplum bustier top over a striped minidress; a peplum top with a train over pants done in gold Lurex pinstripes woven onto seersucker, and a coat that looked like it had been painted with watercolors over a happy green skirt.