A maestro of red-carpet drama, Zac Posen has a practical side, too. He referred to his approach to his resort collection as “the merchandising matrix” during a preview of the collection last week. “You’re going against what’s selling, what you need to expand. We build with all our retailers and customers door by door.” In terms of what’s selling and what’s expanding now: cropped suiting and shirting. He developed the former in a neat black cropped jacket with a white tie neck over a slim black shift dress. The latter came as white cotton blouses with statement cuffs and more fluid satin draped blouses that paired with languid tuxedo/pajama pants. The collection was framed in a strong “direct” palette of black, red, magenta, cobalt blue and pale pink with silhouettes crafted with an Eighties lens, which Posen handled with grace and subtlety. There were no “Dynasty” shoulders, more like gentle draping on killer, curve-hugging silhouettes that Posen knows will sell.

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