For resort, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski opted for a pure rendition of the label’s fluid silk and leather luxury universe, expressing it through a lineup of long, cinched dresses, loose trousers with high waists and trim leather shorts.
Eschewing patterns — save for the checks of seasons past, blown up this time — the designer stuck with a subdued palette of browns, greens and pale pastels. This she interrupted only occasionally with a flash of yellow or a vibrant orange, used for one of the bolder pieces she used to make a lace dress with tan leather accents — unmistakably Hermès.
Models traveled past bouquets of delicate dried wildflowers, down a runway strewn with specks of dry vegetation — something softer and lighter than straw; a tawny silver rather than yellow — carried along on their leather flip-flops with black soles or white-soled sandals, straps kept to a minimal.
In her exercise of boiling it down to the essentials — well, luxury essentials — Vanhee-Cybulski turned up some handsome results. Her show opened with one of the finest, a white jumpsuit, loose-legged but fitted on top with geometric panels cut out of the sides. Shoulder straps buttoned on the back, matching the ones that hugged the waist.
Applying restraint to her experiment blending leather and silk on one piece, worked. The bodice of a dress was structured with small patches of light, black leather which became accents on its long, dark brown skirt.
She continued to play with texture in this way, using a cotton satin with a chintz treatment — pressed and heated — to build structured dresses and shirts; it gave them a sheen not dissimilar to leather.