Thom Browne took classic tailoring with a preppy edge and put it through his morphing machine, stretching and shrinking proportions to great effect. He said his aim was to take “very classic ideas” and good old American sportswear and re-introduce them in a fresh way.
Gray school uniform-style blazers were elongated with narrower shoulders and were paired with matching pleated skirts, some with trompe l’oeil waists and hems. Others looked as if they’d been swiped from granny’s closet and refitted to sit low and nonchalantly on the hips.
Other classics were stretched out, too, including tweed suits with wide fur cuffs — and sporty stripes around the arm — a pleat front tuxedo shirt that doubled as a dress, and a long and lean gray polo shirtdress.
Looks also came in the Browne’s signature, shrunken proportions, such as a double-breasted blazer with shiny buttons and a striped seersucker jacket with patch pockets. A short pink tailored shearling jacket had tri-color stripes around the cuffs and were worn with wide-legged, cropped trousers dotted with images of Hector, Browne’s dachshund.
Accessories played a big role this season, with Browne whipping up boxy bags with rounded edges that came with multiple straps of different lengths and sizes. There were croc versions too. Footwear straddled the masculine and feminine and ranged from crisscross Mary Jane styles to spectator platforms with jazzy stripes and chunky-soled sneakers.