Matty Bovan RTW Fall 2018

Matty Bovan staged his first solo show for fall, graduating from the Fashion East group shows that have painted him as one of the rising stars on the London fashion scene.

The step up seems to have imbued Bovan with a confidence that was evident in the collection’s sophisticated shapes and fabrics, inspired by the designer’s late grandmother, whose wardrobe of tweed suits inspired the silhouettes and textiles. Bovan took a traditional houndstooth check and manipulated it to dramatic proportions in loose weaves or nubby, ladylike textures.

The palette, inspired by violet heather and earthy browns of the North Yorkshire Moors at dusk, was moody and romantic. Bovan moved away from his linear silhouette, nipping in the waists of dresses and jackets, padding hips with strap-on panniers, and boosting the volume of skirts with layers of tulle.

Nods to the practical outdoorsy gear worn by walkers on the moors could be seen in rustic horn buttons on a double-breasted tweed dress, in the exaggerated jodhpur shape given to tailored trousers, and in the Stephen Jones balaclavas.

The closing looks, five full-skirted gowns made from a riot of discordant fabrics, proved that Bovan can do glamour, and the tulle headdresses filled with balloons that topped them were testament to his showmanship.

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