Roksanda Ilincic said she was looking to dress women for real life, and for once-in-a-lifetime moments, and this collection had it all. The sharp and the soft, the liquid and the structured were all done in the designer’s signature offbeat color combinations, which this season included mustard, lavender, aqua, camel and bright red.
“It was big cast, with clothes that a woman needs from the morning until the evening – all the time. I think I am a designer who always cares about women and how to dress them. I want to protect her and shelter her,” Ilincic said of her collection that was both strong and sweet.
For daytime, there were sharp camel suits with lots of volume and military rigor with a slick of red on the back or sleeves. A sleeveless camel dress was spare and elegant with a knot at the back while coats were dramatic, ranging from the long and sweeping to fuzzy, bearish ones made from brushed camels hair and left natural or dyed a Delft blue.
For evening, she tossed lightweight plaid blankets over satin dresses — some with surreal, sinuous drawings by the artist and dancer Caroline Denervaud — and others made from layered swathes of silk that were knotted here and there.
She saved the whimsy for nighttime and dresses with exaggerated pleats, some of them boxy, others like fat ripples of fabric at the front of the dress. She also worked with clouds of tulle — recalling some of her first collections — shaping them into big, rounded dresses with stand-up collars and gatherings around the ankles and capelike ones dotted with bows like little butterflies.