One of the few Milan designers to directly address the sexual harassment scandal that’s been steamrolling over Hollywood, fashion and other industries, Anna Molinari dedicated her collection to strong women.
“This collection may seem feminine and sweet, what with the roses and the flowers, but look closely and you’ll see trousers, and a military-style suit, too,” Molinari said before the show. “We women are oppressed by the world around us, and it’s time to say ‘Enough with being victims!’ What I want to project with this collection is beauty and strength.”
Despite those fighting words, Molinari’s uprising was soft-edged and packed with her signature feather trims, pastel flower prints — even for a short shearling jacket — and tulle confections. Ruffles and pussy bows spilled over pastel, flower-print dresses and ones with sheer tulle overlays while marabou feathers sprouted from pocket edges, sleeves and collars, as in one baby pink wool coat with a Muppet-like charm.
Yes, there were a few trouser suits slotted in here and there, including one that came with a matching fur-lined parka, and a cream tuxedo number with sequins spilling down the side of the leg, and a flower-covered one, but did Molinari really have to make such a big deal about them?
Her Blumarine collections are so recognizable, relentlessly feminine, and so “her” that, at this point, she’s beyond statements. Besides, everyone knows that a Blumarine woman is the one who wears the pants — even when she’s not.