After a season’s hiatus from the runway, Pucci was back on the catwalk for fall and none the better for it. For spring, the brand staged a clever presentation in the same venue, showing its commitment to the house’s bread and butter — prints, swimwear, caftan glamour — in an environment that made sense: a kitschy, fab poolside mis-en-scene.
Beware the lure of the runway. The ideas in the fall collection weren’t all that different from last season. Curlicue archive prints were splashed all over bags, knee-high boots, puffer scarves, quilted outerwear and lingerie pieces. They were commodities, styled up and fleshed out with circle skirts, jersey siren caftans and turban-like hats for maximum Fifties glam effect. But the lineup didn’t hold up under the spotlights. It felt less like a cohesive statement than a souvenir shop collection. If that’s what Pucci wants to be, and there’s nothing wrong with that, there are better ways to present.