In his debut collection for Fay, Arthur Arbesser dialed down his fondness for graphic effects and primary colors in favor of a more down-to-earth approach. He channeled a Mod vibe with his lineup of rain slickers, sharp suits and pleated skirts, shown in a travel-themed presentation that had guests snapping away on their phones.

“Normally, I’m a kind of creative designer, I love patterns, I love a funky, artistic vibe, but I thought with Fay, this is not really the right place to do this,” said the designer, standing in front of a mock airplane. “I want to do nice clothes, beautiful clothes in good quality that are well cut and are really easy.”

Arbesser was inspired by two modern-day style icons, Emma Watson and Ryan Gosling. For her, he imagined a powder blue leather trenchcoat, glossy rainproof outerwear and school girl pleated skirts. In his first foray into men’s wear, he showed dressy coats alongside retro suits in deep shades of olive or claret.

“I thought this Sixties, slightly cheeky attitude maybe gives a bit of a twist to the very conservative and classic Fay world,” he explained. Oversize metallic hooks, a signature of the label’s classic 4 Hooks men’s jacket, were added to women’s raincoats and skirts as a subtly kinky decorative element.

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