For her fall collection, Angela Missoni was inspired by a particular moment in New York: the late Seventies/early Eighties. “That moment of joy, a moment of joyful positivity, an eclectic moment,” Missoni said backstage before her show. That time, before the AIDS crisis and the ascent of big, new-money Nouvelle Society, was carefree, boho and indulgent, its relaxed chic elevated by an undercurrent of worldliness. It’s an era we associate with the Missoni brand (never mind that the company was founded much earlier, in 1953), so it makes sense for Angela Missoni to mine the era today. It’s her challenge to control the nostalgia, lest the past overwhelm the present.

Here, Missoni did so beautifully for both women and men, celebrating the brand codes of pattern, fluidity and layering without getting lost in them. For women, she favored a long, linear silhouette in a palette from earthy to vibrant. For all its elaborate runway head-to-toe, Missoni is really about the perfect item to integrate into a real-world wardrobe not built on high-intensity mélange knits. That starts with coats and jackets, and Missoni offered some gems. Among the most striking: a belted coat made from a patchwork of vintage fabrics sourced from the house archives. The spectacular piece will be produced as a limited edition from the original fabrics, not reissues. Missoni’s beautiful, light-as-air dresses captivated as well, and, unlike in her spring show, now they were styled over T-shirts, eliminating uncomfortable transparency as an issue for her models.

Missoni’s men projected artful cool in combinations that avoided self-consciousness. That’s because their looks typically featured solids items, mostly pants in leather or velvet. Missoni should consider broadening her women’s range in a similar manner. Even though her combinations were controlled, virtually every look presented a lot to take in. Incorporating some basics (a word uncommon to the Missoni range) would heighten the impact of Missoni’s most spectacular pieces.

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