In 2007, Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs first appeared on the cover of WWD with their senior collections from Parsons, where Ochs won Designer of the Year and Cushnie was runner-up. A year later, they launched their own label together, making fall 2018 their 10th anniversary show, staged at the vast, raw urban space at Pier 17 overlooking the East River and lower Manhattan. “It feels good to take a step back and celebrate being in New York,” Cushnie said backstage. “We met in New York, we built our business in New York, 95 percent of our ready-to-wear is produced in New York,” added Ochs. “It really feels like a home moment for us.”
The collection wasn’t a look back in any way — the brand’s core of sleek, minimalist sexiness has been firm since the beginning — but it did come full circle. Zaha Hadid’s smooth architectural curves inspired this lineup, as they did Ochs’ graduate collection in 2007. “I wanted to bring Zaha Hadid into it without making it too hard or too architectural,” she told WWD at the time.
It felt like the same principles applied for fall 2018 as the models emerged from behind a scrim in evening silhouettes that skimmed their curves like liquid mercury. The show opened with a white feather-trimmed dress with slivers cut out at the shoulder, hip and up the leg. A mauve satin blouse draped into a deep-V and tucked into matching wide-leg pants was covered up but impossibly seductive. There were pops of fuchsia, shiny silver, black and gold all worked on monochromatic looks that made the women look like statues of sensuality — strong but soft enough they didn’t look cut from stone.