Each season, Jonathan Cohen manages to increase his sales and add new stockists, most recently Dover Street Market. Chalk that up to his best-selling slash skirt, which this season comes in a playful dress iteration, his push to make eveningwear more modern and his expansion into daywear categories such as shirting and hand-knits. His designs toe a quirky-refined balance, so even staples like shirting are tweaked to feel special.

Cohen continued that theme of elegant subversion for fall, referencing “Grey Gardens” with a mash-up of color, texture and mixed floral prints, which he created with flowers he dried up under his desk and collaged together. There were 18 dress silhouettes in a total of 24 patterns, all with the transitional capacity of day to evening.

Silhouettes were noticeably seasonless. Ruched tops with jeweled collars added a playful pop under cocktail dresses with painted rosebuds; semi-sheer shirting layered easily under fil coupe gowns with bouquet-like clusters. The slash-skirt dress was the most novel, attached to either an untucked shirt or a cropped T-shirt for a carefree effect. Crafty elements included contrast quilting on dresses and ribbon-tie jackets, interchangeable buttons and hand-knits with flower stitches that took nearly 80 hours to make.

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