“We don’t usually answer that question.” That question, posed to Floriana Gavriel backstage before Mansur Gavriel’s second see-now-buy-now spring collection, wasn’t about the company’s financing, June/December shows or whether she and partner Rachel Mansur would dress Melania Trump. It was, “Who is your customer?”

It followed a similarly quizzical exchange: “Tell me about the collection.” “We’re adding wovens such as button-down shirts, lightweight coats, pants, dresses, skirts, tops.”

With Gavriel not sharing and Mansur not there — she gave birth last week — the clothes had to speak for themselves. Luckily, they did. The designers have developed an elegant minimalist aesthetic with clean, unfettered lines, bits of subtle surface interest coming via a few prints and a gauzy grid fabric. The silhouettes radiated casual refinement, and perhaps, some Eighties-Nineties research of the Romeo Gigli (pink shantung pantsuit worn with a sheer skirt) and Zoran (languid tunics over wide pants) genres. While one or two looks veered toward excess maturity, the designers’ highly developed color sense — muted pairings of blush and purple; a russet and lilac combination — prevented crossover. Overall, an exercise in the alluring power of calm.

By  on February 12, 2018

“We don’t usually answer that question.” That question, posed to Floriana Gavriel backstage before Mansur Gavriel’s second see-now-buy-now spring collection, wasn’t about the company’s financing, June/December shows or whether she and partner Rachel Mansur would dress Melania Trump. It was, “Who is your customer?”

It followed a similarly quizzical exchange: “Tell me about the collection.” “We’re adding wovens such as button-down shirts, lightweight coats, pants, dresses, skirts, tops.”

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