For the past decade, Victoria Beckham has been singing the same tune in terms of her collection: “When I started 10 years ago, it was about celebrating the female form and that’s still the message.” Her aesthetic has evolved, been refined and accumulated depth over time, but her mission has remained constant. She designs for women, often herself, but also the kind of women who right now might be mourning the loss of Phoebe Philo at Céline. Beckham doesn’t get the credit Philo did, but she has taken on a similar adult, modernist sensibility and has a lot to offer in the world of modest, minimalist-based clothes that aren’t prudish or boring.
That was on full display at her fall show, staged in the grand salons of the James Burden Mansion where the Convent of the Sacred Heart is located, chosen to allow a luxurious yet intimate up-close viewing of the collection. The rustic, sort of English flavor of slate and mossy tailored coats with big belts that opened the show befitted Beckham’s British background. Stirrup pants and strangely appealing square-toe flats bisected by a long strap that jutted out over the arch of the foot formed the foundation of a strong coat story that continued throughout the 25-look lineup.
There was a divine leopard print chenille jacquard trench of which Beckham was particularly proud, as well as a nice padded navy trench that was sporty but elegant. Actually, that’s a good way to summarize collection’s strengths. Colors were rich — deep green, brown, sapphire blue. Nothing was casual, but there was a cool relaxation to the attitude. One of the best looks was a forest green knit hoodie over a languid brown skirt with a fan of accordion pleats accented by a gigantic purple felted bag. It was casual but still dressed up, and most definitely not ath-leisure.