Take some Victorian style, mix it with the flamboyancy of the Eighties, add a high dose of femininity and romanticism and you’d get Nicky Zimmermann’s great fall collection, probably one the best she has shown so far.
During a backstage interview before the runway show, the Australian designer said she was inspired by an imaginative girl who, living in the oppressive Victorian age, feels herself constricted by social rules and finds relief and freedom in solitary rides on horseback.
Looking at the models walking on the catwalk in languid dresses with eye-catching draped shoulders, ruffled blouses paired with hunting jackets and riding pants, as well as crochet frocks and tops, it was actually easy to imagine them racing around on their horses in the green British countryside, their hair blowing in the wind.
The floral patterns, rendered in a sophisticated tonal scale of natural, chic shades, added to the feminine appeal of the collection, but Zimmermann didn’t overindulge with sugar. She smartly introduced sartorial fabrics with a mannish feel — including a plaid wool she used for a cape-like top matched with pleated pants tucked into over-the-knee length boots — and simple, pure silhouettes, such as a tunic dress simply worn with a hat, its ribbon tie wrapped around the shoulders.
Zimmermann, who is expanding her retail business this year with the opening of stores in Saint-Tropez, Los Angeles and San Francisco, amped up her brand’s offering with a rich selection of outerwear pieces, including a sleek leather trenchcoat with applied pockets and a range of covetable shearling jackets, both available in cropped and long versions.
These not only fit into the wardrobes of contemporary, romantic Jane Austens, but also hip working city girls.