The sea is in the DNA of Antonin Tron’s label Atlein: in fact, the name of the brand (pronounced “at-line”) is designed to connote the power of the Atlantic Ocean. So it was no surprise that his fall collection drew its sustenance from the rough cold waves the designer likes to surf in his spare time.
The invitation featured a quote from William Finnegan’s Pulitzer Prize-winning autobiography “Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life,” which inspired what Tron called his most personal collection so far.
“The way he describes surfing and the sensuality that you find in surfing is something that I personally relate to,” said the designer, who hits the shore in France and Scotland. “The after surf on the parking lot in the winter, changing in the car, all of that — it comes from that physical experience of surfing.”
Indeed, there wasn’t a California beach babe in sight. Instead, Tron worked a mix of his trademark bodycon jersey dresses and an expanded offering of tailoring with a masculine bent, for protective silhouettes rendered in a stormy palette of slate gray, inky blue, forest green and black, with dashes of purple and red.
A black vest with a curved zip was layered over a navy trenchcoat and a wetsuit-inspired jersey bodysuit. A half peeled-off suit revealed a chunky fleece top, while ruched skirts with long suspended straps were twisted over bulky sweaters and vests.
These were mostly quiet clothes — a little too quiet, perhaps, for a fashion show, though individually, they were the sort of pieces women will wear until they fall apart: a perfectly cut blue trouser suit, a navy surplus–style trenchcoat with a double lapel, and a gorgeous deep khaki high-collared bomber jacket.
Here’s hoping Tron’s voice doesn’t get drowned in the roar of lesser talents.