As Richard René eases into his position — he joined the house last September — he’s pointing to an edgier direction for the brand, though the hair and makeup helped.

The Art Brut movement — since founder Guy Laroche collected works — was the starting point, expressed in rectangular constructions, a crumpled gold collar ornament at the neck of one look, and free, unfinished metallic embroideries depicting scribble motifs.

The materials included laminated cardboard, double-layered Neoprene leather and lame striped chiffon with a scratchy motif that was echoed in the models’ black and gold lips, and embroideries on dresses. But it was lacking any real sense of rawness.

The designer experimented with color, including a run of deep purple looks. But the strongest proposal was the signature graphic tailoring like the ivory and black caftans, and tuxedo looks, including a roomy robe coat that had deep patch pockets and was edged with black stripes, elegantly.

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