Ingie Chalhoub moved into darker territory for fall, channeling edgier elements into her collection and giving it a more contemporary vibe in the process. Her references were mixed this season — but then whose aren’t these days? Pleats, autumnal leaves and a nod to Yves Saint Laurent were the key themes.

Centered largely on occasionwear, she worked an array of dresses both long and short, with bustiers, corsets and sweetheart necklines all key to the lineup. Gold and bronze shades recalled the tones of fall on a jacquard bustier dress worn over a black chiffon top. Elsewhere, the gilt theme was recurrent. Pleated with black on the final strapless gown, it worked a treat. Elsewhere, in allover gold draped numbers à la Greek goddess, it was less convincing.

In waves of inky blue, she worked pleated chiffon into simple yet striking dresses, both in evening and cocktail form. The same color palette also worked well on a loose tuxedo suit with shimmering embroidered floral panels.

Red and pink — the Saint Laurent reference, Chalhoub said backstage before the show — provided a vibrant foliage motif that was the key print in the collection, worked on cigarette pants and a short dress.

In a more casual register, her jacquard knit skater dress was sporty yet elegant, while a vivid red dress was particularly cute with its macramé panels suggestive of mashrabiya motifs — a nod to Chalhoub’s new boutique in The Dubai Mall, set to open next month, she explained.

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