Yoshiyuki Miyamae continued to glean inspiration from nature — especially plants and animals that subsist through the harsh winter months — for his fall collection. “Quiet strength and gentleness wraps around them,” said the show notes. That aptly described this season’s clothes, too.
The designer, on a perpetual quest for new fabric techniques, introduced a method integrating both knits and pleats into Miyake’s traditional “steam stretch,” birthing a new texture. It gave the effect of lightweight, knit wool.
The first five all-white looks set the wintry scene. Here layers including long coats, vests, trousers and a skirt mixed different weaves, plus matte and shaggy materials. Next solid colors were introduced, such as burnt orange, navy blue and chocolate, and various swirling patterns, on skirts, dresses, tops and trousers.
This collection had a strength and refinement in equal measure. A standout was the calf-length coat with a ripple-weave effect over a cowl-neck shirt and trousers with swirly textures. Another striking look involved black voluminous pants with gray, vein-like lines and a shirt with a cross-hatch effect.