Johanna Ortiz’s ultra-feminine silhouettes were combined with military and gaucho tones for fall, in reference to the grandfather she never knew, a cavalry general in the Colombian army. By bringing the two worlds together and adding tailored pieces to the lineup for the first time, she created an at-times beautiful play on contrasts.

Thirties interior design was the inspiration for many of the textiles, used on floaty dresses in rich, dusty shades and loungewear-inspired pajamas and robes. These were juxtaposed with men’s wear fabrics like a Prince of Wales check, used on a tailored coat with a floral lining and matching masculine pants. A cowboy shirt was styled with a sequined pencil skirt, another example of the play on contrasts. Giant flowers, ruffles and ostrich feathers decorated a few designs and, while opulent, they weren’t overbearing.

An army coat with a double collar was updated with short sleeves; another, in camel wool, had a striking burnt orange jacquard lining.

In a more casual register, Ortiz adorned her boyfriend jeans with crystal embroideries down the sides that invoked military insignia, pairing them with a plain back top with cowboy cuffs. She dressed up the whole with a ruffled cummerbund in dusty pink jacquard.

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