Rahul Mishra turned to his memory for the fall collection, aware of its unreliability — his young, villager self did not have a camera to record the landscapes he saw from a train. He transferred the scenes from his mind to clothing with sequins, building pixilated patterns that formed the backbone of the lineup. They were patchwork rows in autumn hues, accented with bright reds and deep greens, applied to loose suit jackets, skirts and coats. Silhouettes were inspired by the Eighties, when tailoring empowered women, noted the Indian designer.

Reflecting his migration to an urban environment, cityscapes followed, in black and white. The small geometric shapes on the top of a dress evolved in an Escher-esque manner and became buildings along the skirt. A hand loomed jacquard called Kinkhab was another star of the show, bright pink, woven with gold highlights. It takes a day to make just one centimeter, said Mishra, who used it for a suit jacket, trousers and even a pair of sneakers. Loyal to his focus, Mishra drew hand craftsmanship from India further into the contemporary fashion universe with a wide-ranging collection. He has a habit of showing pieces that call for individual inspection.

load comments