Main message: For his newly launched brand’s first collection, Naoki Tomizuka made heavy use of ruffles, gathering, and voluminous shapes. The nearly all-black collection — with a few cream-colored and floral pieces thrown in — consisted of puff-sleeve jackets, asymmetric tops and frilly blouses paired with wide-leg trousers and long skirts. A pair of laced-trimmed, full-skirted dresses and elaborate hats had a very nursery-rhyme-like feel to them. Although theatrical in nature, the clothes had a certain realness that is often lacking in collections by similar brands.
The result: While definitely not for the mainstream, Tomizuka will likely find a following among Tokyo’s very niche fashion tribes.