Name: The Dallas

Main message: Her brand The Dallas may only be two years old, but Fumie Tanaka is no newcomer to Japanese fashion, having worked as a designer for such major companies as United Arrows, Jun and Sazaby League. Her experience shows in her intricate knits and unconventional use of texture. She showed cozy sweaters with fringe details and sexy open backs alongside silky, layered floral dresses, sparkling metallic turtlenecks and plaid pantsuits. Outerwear included a laminated trench and billowing detective capes. Tanaka finished off the collection with her trademark leather accessories in flower shapes with long tassels.

The result: While some looks didn’t fit in and the collection would have benefited from a strong edit, it was a solid first showing from a brand that has already generated buzz.

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