“Shows are fun to watch, but they really have nothing to do with us. This time I wanted to do something that would put [the audience] into the daily lives of other people,” designer Yohei Ohno said after his fall presentation.
Held in an underground space in Tokyo’s Omotesando district, the installation had models posing in natural positions among retro furniture and a mirrored background. While the clothes had Ohno’s typically sculptural shapes, they were also more wearable than his previous offerings, even though he said that wasn’t his intention.
“Until now I’ve used weird materials such as metallics as my signature, but I decided to stop doing that for now and instead use fabrics that are more intimate for people, such as corduroy and tweed,” he said. “I started with these kinds of fabrics that give people an intimate feeling and then expanded them using my own mental image.”
Ohno showed tweed suits with exaggerated puff shoulders, raw denim jackets and high-waisted jeans, shirts with tulle overlays on the sleeves, and tank tops with long, pleated panels hanging off the front and gathered together like curtains. Bodysuits made many appearances in a variety of fabrics, and were worn either layered over the top of trousers or with no pants at all.
The collection struck a delicate balance between artistic and commercial, and would fit right in on Tokyo’s streets today, further cementing Ohno’s position among Japan’s promising young designers.