The show was a jolly affair, unfurling at the grand old town house of One Marylebone early on Saturday night, and following an hour of cocktails that came courtesy of cognac maker Courvoisier, with whom the designer is set to start collaborating.
It marked the first time since 2019 that Fletcher was on the catwalk, and the energy in the room was buzzy. Tom Daley — the British diver, Olympic gold medallist and knitting expert — made the accessories, while the history-and-literature-inspired label Alighieri did the jewelry.
Daniel Fletcher conjured a ’70s mood, drawing on the style of his late father, the Rolling Stones, and the era’s preppies and football fans. It was also the first time that Fletcher, a menswear designer, sent women’s looks down the runway — although his designs have always appealed to a wide audience.
Fletcher’s flair for tailoring was evident from the first exit: a white tuxedo-style shirt with a high collar and buckle detail at the neck. A lineup of breezy suits with silky striped untucked shirts fluttering from underneath the jackets followed. A long coat made with cream patent leather at the top and wool at the bottom was a standout, as were the neat, padded military jackets done in satin.
Sustainable materials are becoming an ever-larger part of the London designers’ arsenals, and Fletcher was no exception. He worked mainly with deadstock this season, including bits of denim, which he whipped into a cool pair of jeans with a checkerboard patchwork.
The knits were nifty, too, and included roomy sweaters with bits of colored yarn stitched here and there in little groupings, while a long red-and-white football scarf, knitted by Daley, nodded to Fletcher’s roots as a Manchester United fan, and to memories of his dad.