Molly Goddard took a punk turn — minus the safety pins and anger — with a collection that subverted stereotypes and ripped up the classics.
This high-energy show — Goddard’s first runway event since lockdown — was inspired by serendipitous finds at London’s Portobello and Camden markets during the late ’80s and ’90s, and the myriad ways of mixing them up.
While those references were well after punk’s heyday, the collection had that same do-it-yourself, rough-edged feel so different from the youthful innocence, delicate ruffles and ruching of Goddard’s previous collections.
True, the big skirts and baby frills were out in force, but Goddard toned them down with Fair Isle and fisherman knits, wooly tights and hefty platform boots. She described the overall look as “eclectic, here’s-what-I-found-down-the-market,” and said it was more “casual and scruffy,” than in the past.
Models wore off-the-shoulder evening dresses over chunky fisherman knits and long grandpa-style cardigans over the designer’s signature tulle skirts.
A sheer lemon-toned pouf dress — one of the collection’s many nods to ’80s silhouettes — was worn over gray wooly tights, and made for a cozy combination on a miserable, rainy day, while a pony print dress with ruffles at the bottom nodded to Goddard’s enduring love of vintage children’s clothing, and gentle nursery colors.
Goddard’s runway setup didn’t do this collection any favors, though: The designer said the collection demanded an “extreme perspective” given all the embellishment and big proportions, so she raised it high, distorting the outfits’ view and forcing viewers to crane their necks upward.
She should have had the models on ground level, swooshing their way around the room so the audience could see all of those cozy glam combos up close.