In many ways, 2021 was Nensi Dojaka’s year: There were multiple industry accolades, viral celebrity moments — remember Camille Charriere’s naked dress at the Fashion Awards? — and a boom in post-lockdown sales of her sexy little dresses.For her second catwalk outing, Dojaka proved she can keep the momentum going and be much more than a one-hit wonder. For starters, she kept reworking and refining her signature lingerie-inspired dresses: She rendered them in rich red velvets, added playful ruffled trims or maxi lengths, showing that they still have plenty of legs. There were subtle romantic touches, too, like floral-shaped wiring on the busts of dresses, referencing Irving Penn imagery — but the biggest source of inspiration for Dojaka is “always the women” and the female body. To that end, she expanded her repertoire in a bid to invite more women into her world, who might not go for her body-skimming evening dresses, but would feel comfortable in a stretchy, knitted version of the same dress; some sharp tailoring to layer over the brand’s risqué corsets; or more sporty puffers and poplin shirts.
“It’s an evolution of what I started last year, but it’s getting better and there are now more possibilities to create a strong brand image across lots of different categories,” said Dojaka.
But perhaps the most important move in strengthening her brand image was the addition of models of different body shapes on her catwalk — including Paloma Elsesser and a pregnant Maggie Maurer, who looked terrific in a sheer sequined gown. It showed that this is a designer who’s capable of taking feedback and creating an inclusive, modern-day brand.