The human body was at the core of the impactful collection Luca Lin and Galib Gassanoff designed for fall.
Best known for its theatrical, tulle pieces and their cross-pollination with tailoring, the creative duo explored the seasonal theme in lean silhouettes by outlining anatomical shapes on tulle suits or tie-dyed denim pants. The concept took a tougher spin when safety pins were involved to highlight the shapes, overall marking a refreshing start of the collection.
As the lineup progressed, the brand’s signature fashions came in, ranging from fluid shirts and long-trained dresses splashed with peonies and landscape prints nodding to Lin’s Chinese origins to the maximalist tulle looks that always elicit a wow from the audience.
While this season some such statement pieces came with exaggerated proportions that had a dramatic effect but also felt too costume-y, they served the bigger purpose of reinforcing the inclusive message Lin and Gassanoff want to telegraph with their brand.
For example, gowns with huge ruffled necklines reminiscent of a flower’s corolla offered in bold primary colors were sported by models that had their skin painted in matching hues. “We wanted to show that we are black, white, but also blue and red, and everyone is welcome,” said Gassanoff after the show.
The approach reinforced an already strong casting, which featured different body types, ages and genders.