In the hands of Alberto Caliri, Missoni has settled into a sexier, more freewheeling fashion groove, tilted more to streetwear than bourgeois codes — though occasionally they mingled, as in the opening look of a woolen zigzag coat tossed over a black bikini.
Like many designers this fall season, Caliri took inspiration from America, seen in the Texan-esque snakeskin ankle boots, and the attitude of ’90s hip-hop conveyed by low-slung pants or sweats, and small, waist-baring tops. Backstage, wearing a red sweatshirt bearing the name of a Nebraska football team, the designer talked about mashing up the energy of New York’s music scene with classic Milanese chic.
He’s not into matchy-matchy looks, and takes plenty of respite from busy knits, sending out a zippered red leather jumpsuit here; a black jersey column with cutouts around the bosom there.
But he also knows how to exalt those space-dyed patterns, embroidering sequins onto robe-like coats and approximating the texture of knits with a long, fully beaded slipdress. The house knits also came in filmy guises — as a short, slashed minidress or a long-sleeved polo.
The show took place in a sports arena, with models parading around cubes rigged with LED screens, reminiscent of a scoreboard. Like many brands in Milan, Missoni’s wide casting call roped some famous runway faces of yore, including Eva Herzigová, Elisa Sednaoui and Mini Anden.
Caliri had been the right hand of longtime creative director Angela Missoni for 12 years, and took over the design helm last summer after she ceded the role. It’s considered an “ad interim” takeover, and he’s done a solid job widening the scope of the brand.