The venue may have been more sleek and contained than in previous shows — an all-black box and no humongous sculptures, merry-go-round swings or a sea aquarium — but Philipp Plein still succeeded in creating quite the stage.
Plein presented his fall collection at the historic Palazzo Melzi d’Eril building that formerly housed Krizia’s headquarters and that will be the home of his first hotel, restaurant and club. He had images of glowing flames projected behind the slim mirrored runway, with his logo burning brightly. Models walked to thundering music and the fire motif was also reproduced on roomy sweaters for men. A lightning symbol embellished the lapels of a jacket worn over patent leather pants.
Plein’s diehard fans were not disappointed — one guest stood up for most of the show filming the models dancing and was finally grabbed and arm-wrestled to her seat. The designer offered his run-of-the-mill va-va-voom and heavily logoed looks, which this season included cardigans with jewel buttons worn as minidresses over thigh-high Latex boots and slipdresses with strategically placed cutouts. His signature bling was still there, with bedazzled sequined body-hugging short dresses and a gold knit dress. Plein’s women are unapologetically sexy, cue a white double-breasted jacket exposing the bare back.
The outerwear was strong for both men and women, with beautiful shearling and leather biker jackets — one in, ahem, flaming red was a standout.
Plein mixed sartorial men’s looks with a casual streak, such as a well-cut velvet tuxedo jacket over jogging pants, python biker jackets over distressed denim jeans or a tailored coat over a tracksuit.
He introduced an allover print featuring a range of wild animals, from giraffes to lions and hippos, with studded motifs that looked a bit fussy, but there were also a series of fun varsity jackets and cardigans adorned with imaginary basketball team logos and insignia, from Skulls to Bears and Scorpions.
Ahead of the show, Plein spoke enthusiastically of soon becoming a father. He meant it — he took his bow and then asked his partner to join him on the runway, kneeling down and softly kissing her belly.