Here comes a sexier Philosophy. In an imaginary lush cabaret, its dense atmosphere marked by dim lights and languid live music, Lorenzo Serafini presented his noir take on seductiveness, decisively stepping toward a more daring territory.
In a season that has seen many brands exploring a darker side of their muses, turning girly attitudes into fiercer and more mature body-awareness, the brand added a layer of self-affirmation to the sensual narrative, opening the cast to different genders and body types.
Take the host of the night: French artist Luc Bruyère, aka Lucky Love, effortlessly sporting a look from the women’s label while performing an acoustic version of the 1968 Italian hit “La Bambola.” While in the original song Patty Pravo lamented the torments of being treated like a doll in the hands of her lover, Serafini overturned such a perspective with an empowering collection.
He first worked with proportions, designing strong shoulders either in rounded shapes — as seen on padded vinyl jackets and coats covered in a chain motif — or in pointy silhouettes, as introduced in second-skin dresses and marinière knits. Pointy bras peeping under soft cardigans added to the silhouettes and the overall retro flair, which swung between the ’20s and ‘40s.
Backstage, Serafini said he was inspired by Berlin cabarets during the Weimar Republic, with the seasonal mood board behind him filled with sensual illustrations of German artist Jeanne Mammen.
Just like in Mammen’s artwork, masculine and feminine elements blended in the collection, ranging from tuxedo blazers and pinstripe sartorial pants to transparent lace in long dresses and lingerie pieces. In his juxtaposition of textures, the designer also included billowy frocks with plunging slits and necklines, multicolored mohair knits and cool faux fur jackets in pink and baby blue statement hues.
Crystal fringe on cardigans and barely there crystal net dresses swinging at every stride catapulted the lineup into an extra glam zone, but even these sparkly elements couldn’t dent the intimate feeling Serafini poured into the collection.